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Your Comprehensive Guide To Producing Stellar Landscape Photos

Landscape photography is rewarding, but it’s difficult, especially for those of us who are just starting out. What subjects should you photograph? What settings matter the most on your camera? Do you really need lens filters? These are the questions every photographer has asked themselves at some point.
I could write a book on landscape photography – and, coincidentally, there are plenty of books out there that will help you take your photography career to the next level. But you don’t need to read an entire book to start taking better photos.
As a matter of fact, you can create stellar landscape photos by following just a handful of basic principles and rules. This comprehensive landscape photography guide has been written to help you learn the ropes and avoid common mistakes.
1. Scout A Few Locations (And Choose Your Favorite)
Every artist needs a subject – and that means you need a landscape to shoot. I recommend scouting out a few locations before you begin the process of photographing the landscape.
Find a few different sites that are visually interesting, and choose the one you like the most. Try to find a dynamic landscape that offers different textures, colors, and clear sight lines.
When you’re just starting out, it can be hard to figure out what landscapes will make great photos. Ask yourself the following questions to determine if you’re shooting the right subject:
  • Are there visually-interesting elements in both the foreground and background?
  • Is there contrast? Light and dark, rock and plants, geometric shapes and curves, etc.
  • Can you create a composition that follows the rule of thirds?
It takes time and experience to choose the right subjects, so don’t be afraid to experiment, and shoot in many different places until you’ve found your favorite. Some folks like mountains, some like waterfalls, others love prairies and grasslands – and all of these landscapes can look absolutely gorgeous when photographed properly!
2. Prepare By Visiting The Site At Different Times Of Day
The light is your biggest ally – and worst enemy – when it comes to landscape photography. Once you’ve got a subject for your photos, it’s time to check it out in different light conditions, to determine what conditions may be the best for your photos. The way the sun shines at different times of day will have a huge effect on things like:
  • Proper exposure time, aperture and ISO
  • The contrast between dark and light
  • Clarity and brightness of reflections in water and other reflective surfaces
  • Flaring of the lens
  • Your ability to capture fast-moving objects
It’s up to you to experiment, and find out what lighting conditions are going to be the best for your subject.
A stark cliffside, for example, may provide a gorgeous contrast between light and dark during the sunset or sunrise – with sharp lines that accentuate the jagged cliffs.
On the other hand, a flower-filled meadow may be best photographed during the day, when the sun will bring out its bright, beautiful colors. Further still, you may wish to shoot just before sunrise if you’re looking to capture a sharp, clear, and glare-free reflection, such as a mountain captured in the reflection of a small lake or pond.
Visualize what your scene will look like during different times of day, and decide when the best time is to shoot your photos. Consider taking a few test trips, too, just to capture some images and explore your composition options.
3. Use The Right Gear
Naturally, you’ll need the proper gear to take landscape photos. A DSLR is usually the best choice for landscape photography, but some modern mirrorless cameras offer nearly the same quality in a more compact package.
A tripod will be essential if you’re planning on any longer exposures, and to ensure consistency between multiple landscape shots. When it comes to lenses, I recommend bringing a total of three along:
  • Wide angle zoom lens 10-18mm – A wide angle lens allows you to take in expansive backgrounds while enhancing the prominence of foreground objects.
  • Regular zoom lens 18-55mm – A zoom lens is extremely versatile, as it allows you to vary your focal lengths without removing the lens completely.
  • Telephoto lens 55-201mm – Telephoto lenses can be used to isolate particular parts of the landscape, such as a tree or a waterfall.
Depending on your subject, you may also need some filters for your lenses. A circular polarizer can reduce water glare and enhance the contrast of the sky. ND filters are darkened glass filters that can be placed on your DSLR to lengthen shutter speeds and are also a favorite among landscape photographers. However, I do not consider these accessories to be absolutely essential – they’re just nice to have in some situations.
Beyond this, make sure you’ve got plenty of spare batteries, memory cards, and a microfiber cloth to clean your lenses.
4. Always Shoot In RAW
RAW files are superior to JPEG files in every way. Unlike JPEGs, RAW files are not compressed or modified. As the name suggests, they contain the raw data from the image – in a completely uncompressed format.
Because of this, RAW images are much larger than JPEGs – usually by about 5x. However, you should always be shooting in RAW, as it will make post-production much easier, and preserve more of the details of the photograph.
Most DSLRs allow you to shoot both JPEG+RAW at the same time. This is a “best of both worlds” solution. You’ll benefit from the small size and portability of a JPEG image, which can be easily shared and uploaded online, while still being able to view and edit the RAW files using a post-processing software if desired.
5. Focus On Adjusting The “Three Fundamentals”
It can be difficult to know how to properly adjust your camera if you’re a novice photographer – or even if you have several years of experience. Modern high-quality DSLR`s have innumerable sensor settings. Combined with the filters and different lenses available, things get complicated – fast.
That’s why I recommend always focusing on the “Three Fundamentals” above all else when adjusting your camera. The three fundamentals consist of:
  • ISO – ISO describes the sensitivity of the camera to available light. The higher the ISO is, the more light the sensor can collect, and vice versa. Boosting ISO can be helpful for low-light photography and capturing fast-moving images, but can cause excessive “grain” or “noise.”
    For most landscape photographers, an ISO that’s near the baseline of 100-200 is going to be ideal, as you’ll usually be shooting in the daylight hours, and photographing large, stationary objects.
  • Aperture – Aperture impacts the Depth of Field (DOF) of your image, as well as the brightness of the image. It’s usually referred to by the term “f/stops.”
    This describes the size of the aperture that allows light through the lens. A higher number, such as f/22, indicates a very narrow opening, while a smaller number, such as f/2.4, indicates a larger opening. A lower f/stop allows more light into the camera because the aperture is wider. This can be used to help shorten exposure time and lower ISO.
    However, f/stops also affect the focus of your image. An “open” aperture of f/2.4 will be less focused than an aperture of f/22. However, the parts that remain in focus will be very sharp. On the other hand, an f/22 aperture would allow for greater clarity of the entire scene, but with somewhat lower sharpness than a larger aperture would allow.
    To find your ideal f/stop, take a few test images. Do you need to focus on more of the landscape? Is your ISO too high, resulting in grain? Are you taking a near-field shot? Adjust your aperture accordingly, and you’ll be able to fine-tune the correct focus.
  • Shutter speed – controls how long the camera’s sensor is exposed to the light that’s allowed in by the aperture. A shorter shutter speed – such as 1/50s – are better for shooting without a tripod, or capturing fast objects in well-lit scenes.
    In contrast, a slower shutter speed of 1 second or longer will allow for more clarity in dim areas, but can also be affected by motion blur, because the camera will register movement as long as the shutter is open. A tripod is a must-have with long shutter speeds.
    There is no “correct” speed for landscape photography. It depends on your subject, the lighting, and a number of other factors.
By focusing on these three fundamentals, overexposure and underexposure can both be avoided.
6. Use Post-Processing To Take Your Images To The Next Level
Once you’ve scouted your location, prepared your gear, adjusted your camera, and snapped your photos, you’re done, right? Well, not quite. To really take your images to the next level, you’ll want to do some post-production editing.
I understand that, among landscape photographers, post-processing can be a bit controversial. There are those who believe that, when properly taken, a great landscape photo does not need any post-processing. And that’s completely fine!
Post-production is 100% your decision – and if you don’t want to use a tool like Adobe Lightroom to edit your images, that’s completely fine. However, post-processing is easier than ever before – and if it’s done right, it’s a great way to take your images to the next level.
In fact, I would argue that post-processing is just as important as capturing a properly lit landscape photo. It’s the little things that make a photo really “pop,” and even simple automatic filtering and processing using Adobe Lightroom can correct colors and saturation, brighten dark spots, and enhance your photos. Just about every professional landscape photographer uses a post-production software suite to make minor adjustments to their images, and make them look their best.
Adobe Lightroom is definitely our top choice for photographers. Not only can it be used to correct and modify your RAW images, it also functions as a photo library, which makes it easier to organize your collection of photographs. Those looking for more powerful editing tools may also want to look into Adobe Photoshop, which has more powerful – but complex – editing capabilities.
Practice (a lot!) and step up your post-processing skills
I’m so glad that you’ve read through the whole guide – I hope that you’ve learned something from it. Of course, the best way to make sure you’ve learned something is to practice it – so go ahead and apply this guide the next time you’re out taking the photographs.
If you feel intimidated by the post-processing software, your best course of action is to learn the very basics of Lightroom – one the most popular photo processing software – so that you could handle trivial tasks with confidence and explore the more complicated areas of it without feeling blind and helpless.
I’m sure that you have seen and tried dozens of tutorials at this point – just like I have back in the day. But what most tutorials lacked (and I still see this being an issue today) was the focus and specificity of what I wanted to do – landscape photography.
Most tutorials are either teaching you some tricks (making you a one-trick pony when it comes to editing) or only have a general overview of the software, leaving you to fend for yourself when it comes to actually apply what you’ve learned to get the result you want.
This is different in my video course. I created and recorded it with one goal in mind, which is to provide a granular yet comprehensive walkthrough of what Lightroom has to offer for editing landscape and nature photographs specifically, and how to consciously get the results you want, over and over again. And the overwhelmingly positive feedback I get from my customers makes me believe that I’ve succeeded in that.
My Lightroom Video Course contains more than 50 narrated videos that walk you through the program in baby steps – from the very basic interface breakdowns to complete, start-to-finish photo processing guides.
Here’s a peek into what’s included:
  • Getting Started:
    • Calibrating Your Monitor
    • Optimizing Lightroom’s Performance
  • The Library Module Videos:
    • Overview of the Library Module
    • File Organization and Management
    • Quick Collections and Smart Collections
    • Importing Your Photos to Lightroom
    • Reviewing and Rating Photos
    • Fixing Missing File Errors
  • The Develop Module Videos:
    • Overview of the Develop Module
    • Virtual Copies
    • Working with Sliders
    • Lens Corrections
    • Transform
    • The Histogram
    • Profiles in Lightroom CC
    • The Basic Panel
    • Dehaze
    • The Tone Curve
    • HSL
    • Black & White Mix
    • Split Toning
    • Sharpening
    • Noise Reduction
    • Post Crop Vignette
    • Grain
    • Camera Calibration
    • The Crop Tool
    • The Spot Removal Tool
    • The Graduated Filter Tool
    • The Radial Filter Tool
    • The Adjustment Brush
    • Snapshots and History
    • Using Presets
    • Batch Processing
    • Creating a Workflow
    • Panorama Merge
    • HDR Merge
    • Soft Proofing
    • Enhancing Skies
    • Working with Autumn Colors
    • Working with Haze
    • Selective Sharpening
    • Start to Finish: Waterfall Photo
    • Start to Finish: Seascape Photo
    • Start to Finish: Forest Path Photo
    • Exporting Your Photos
  • The Map Module Video
  • The Print Module Video
  • Optional Add-Ons Videos:
    • Landscape Legend Lightroom Presets
    • Aurora HDR
    • Noiseless
    • On1 Resize
  • Customizing Lightroom’s Interface Video
Going through the complete course will allow you to revisit your old photos and make them better than you ever expected them to be – imagine what’s going to be possible when you apply the guidelines above AND the course material!
Don’t take just my word for it. Mike, who tried a handful of learning resources before, gave my course a shot. Here’s what he said to me:
"I learned more from your Lightroom for Landscapes course than I had in YEARS of being a [competitor's name removed] member. Your approach and flow through the well-organized segments of the course makes a lot of information very much easier to retain. Everything I needed was right there. Needless to say, after viewing your course I canceled my [competitor's name removed] subscription. Thanks again for making Lightroom much easier to understand!"
Mike
Sounds good enough to try? If I were you, I would definitely give this a shot. Going through this course will make you know Lightroom well enough to produce any result you want – all while focusing specifically on the subject of landscape and nature.
This is going to be worth the money, trust me. That said, this Lightroom Video Course comes with 30-days money back guarantee – should you not end up being satisfied with the course material, you’re able to get your money back within 30 days of the purchase.
Get the video course